Guest Columnist Les Kincaid   

Several Steps to a Great Steak

• Use fresh beef that you've just bought or have refrigerated for up to three days. Do not use meat that has been frozen.

• Preheat your gas grill on high for at least 10 minutes. Clean and oil the grates. Remember to keep the lid closed during preheating and as you cook.

• Trim excess fat from the steak. Then season the meat with freshly ground pepper and kosher or coarse salt, using a little more salt than usual since some will drip off during cooking.

• To get steakhouse-quality grill marks, place one end of the steak diagonal to the grates facing left (pointing to 10 o'clock). Then, without flipping the steak, move the end so that it now faces right (pointing to 2 o'clock). Flip the steak and repeat the previous two steps.

• Grill a boneless steak, such as rib-eye or sirloin, 1 to 11/2 inches thick, for 90 seconds for each step if you prefer rare meat. Grill a bone-in steak, like a porterhouse, for 2 minutes per step for rare. Add 30 seconds per step for medium-rare. Cook for 3 minutes per step for medium-well. Remove the steak from the grill.

• A meat thermometer should register 145º F for medium-rare, 160º F for medium, and 165º F for medium-well, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Summer Wines

If Las Vegas’ temperatures have you thinking about wines for summer sipping, you're in luck: I have choices, nine of which cost $12 or less.

Recommended wines include two refreshing types that are best well-chilled: perennial summer favorite pinot Grigio and rising star rosé. I’ve also tested another up-and-comer, malbec, a rich red that pairs perfectly with barbecued meats and should be served neither warm nor cold (about 65º F would be fine). We’ve enjoyed this on Les’ Wines & Vines several times from a variety of wineries.

Pinot Grigio/Gris ("Pinot" probably refers to the grape cluster's pinecone shape. Traditionally, Pinot Grigio is Old World style, with crisp acidity and light body, while pinot Gris tends to be New World, with a more intense fruity flavor and more body.) In the world of white wine, Pinot Grigio tend to be fairly simple. Most are light-bodied and dry. The excellent Clos du Bois, $14, and Yellow Tail, $8, have an intense yet balanced mix of tropical fruit, citrus, and Juicy Fruit gum flavors (no kidding; all are characteristic of pinot Grigio), punctuated by a crisp acidity. The other choices have similar flavors (some also have a slight honey aroma) but are a bit less intense and less complex. All go well with fresh fruit and seafood.

Rosé (Like red wines, rosé is made from dark grapes, but the wine has little or no contact with the grapes’ skin, so it’s lighter in color.) At its best, this pink wine is drier and more complex than the Lancers rosé that was popular a generation ago. The Yellow Tail, $8, has a touch of sweetness and a nice assortment of fruit flavors. It stands up to savory or spicy foods. The Muga Rioja, $13, is drier and leaner—acidity is more prominent than flavor or fruitiness. It pairs well with sushi; grilled, stewed, or smoked seafood; or barbecued meats.

Malbec (A grape variety from Bordeaux, where it's often blended with other reds, malbec is now especially successful in Argentina.) It's a full-bodied red, with medium to high levels of tannin and some spiciness. We found six that are very good, with a balanced mix of black and red fruit and spiciness. All combine a fruity and woody/oaky style. They are wines for summer that can be drunk now and may improve in the next year or two. They can stand up to fairly rich foods: steaks, stews, ribs, or a mushroom risotto, for instance.

Try the steaks and the wines. You can certainly add other selections or side dishes to make a summer meal very memorable.

Grilled Summer Fruit

Peel and core the pineapple and cut into 1-inch slices. If using peaches, cut them in half and remove pits but don’t peel.
On medium-hot grill, cook pineapple 2 minutes per side; cook peaches skin-side up for 4 minutes, flip and cook 3 or 4 more minutes.
Serve with ice cream and berries.

Yields: 6 to 8 servings

 

Chimichurri sauce

Chimichurri contains both a breath polluter (raw garlic) and a natural mouthwash (parsley). The net effect is the gutsy flavor of garlic without the price to pay at the moment of the goodnight kiss. A lot of ink has been spilled on the etymological origins of this curiously named sauce. The majority of people believe a British bartender working in Buenos Aires named Jimmy and his favorite seasoning, curry powder. By this reasoning, "Jimmy's curry" became chimichurri. There are two problems here: Curry powder is not an ingredient used in Argentinean cooking. And why would Argentina's national condiment come from an Englishman? Whatever its origins, the assertive blend makes a terrific sauce for beef ribs.

Finely chop the parsley and garlic in a food processor.
Add the onion, vinegar, water, salt, oregano, pepper flakes, and black pepper and process in brief bursts until the salt crystals are dissolved.
Add the oil in a thin stream. Do not over process; the chimichurri should be fairly coarse. Correct the seasoning, adding salt or vinegar to taste.

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